Change the
World of Surfing? Sure, Why Not? All You Need is a Few Drops of Catalyst: The
Pure Stoke of Riding a Wave
When I read Jim Moriarty’s comment about the Surfrider
Foundation being bigger than Google, well, I thought it was a bit grandiose
until I remembered what we were thinking twenty years ago, when we thought we
were going to completely change the world of surfing!
If you want
to read the whole story about “The Dawn Patrol: Surfrider Twenty Years Ago,
check out my article in Surfers Journal in Vol 13, No 3. But for a quick shot of adrenalin, here’s why
we did what we did to catalyze Surfrider into life.
We were
veteran surfers: Oxnard
before the locals, the Ranch before the owners, J-bay before the Condos, Baja
before the highway. We knew we’d been
blessed with Kahuna’s best, and we wanted to share the stoke with others!
We wanted
to make riding waves a badge of honor worn by surfers as members of a service
organization – programs for inner city kids, creating surfing parks for more
people to experience the wonder of a good wave, and defending the surfing
environment against developers and polluters.
We wanted
to create a Cousteau Society for surfers – with research vessels, wave
preserves, apprentice programs, scholarships – and we dreamed it all up during
the summer of 1984 watching the Olympics in LA and thinking, “We want to do
something as bitchen as all this – for surfing!”
So as
Surfrider heads into the next 20 years this summer, don’t ever let the pure
reality of surfing - jumping off the continent into an oceanic wilderness full
of energy – leave your thoughts. Surfing
demands courage, a genuine boldness, and a lot of faith. That’s what it took to start the Foundation,
and that’s what it will ALWAYS take to stay in trim inside the ever present
tube ride of the challenges ahead.
Glenn
Hening
Founder, Surfrider Foundation
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