Change the World of Surfing? Sure, Why Not? All You Need is a Few Drops of Catalyst: The Pure Stoke of Riding a Wave
When I read Jim Moriarty’s comment about the Surfrider Foundation being bigger than Google, well, I thought it was a bit grandiose until I remembered what we were thinking twenty years ago, when we thought we were going to completely change the world of surfing!
If you want to read the whole story about “The Dawn Patrol: Surfrider Twenty Years Ago, check out my article in Surfers Journal in Vol 13, No 3. But for a quick shot of adrenalin, here’s why we did what we did to catalyze Surfrider into life.
We were veteran surfers: Oxnard before the locals, the Ranch before the owners, J-bay before the Condos, Baja before the highway. We knew we’d been blessed with Kahuna’s best, and we wanted to share the stoke with others!
We wanted to make riding waves a badge of honor worn by surfers as members of a service organization – programs for inner city kids, creating surfing parks for more people to experience the wonder of a good wave, and defending the surfing environment against developers and polluters.
We wanted to create a Cousteau Society for surfers – with research vessels, wave preserves, apprentice programs, scholarships – and we dreamed it all up during the summer of 1984 watching the Olympics in LA and thinking, “We want to do something as bitchen as all this – for surfing!”
So as Surfrider heads into the next 20 years this summer, don’t ever let the pure reality of surfing - jumping off the continent into an oceanic wilderness full of energy – leave your thoughts. Surfing demands courage, a genuine boldness, and a lot of faith. That’s what it took to start the Foundation, and that’s what it will ALWAYS take to stay in trim inside the ever present tube ride of the challenges ahead.
Founder, Surfrider Foundation